Author Archives: mangomanjaro

The Scandal of females traveling alone

I went to Africa alone last year, when I had just turned 19. I had returned to Sweden after 6 months in NY, and I was hungry for new impressions. While I was working my ass off that summer, I dreamed about going to Africa, and I decided to do so. East Africa attracted me the most.

I started looking for company, but it turned out to be a lot harder than I had thought. So, I said to myself: I’ll just go alone then.

Then I started telling others about my plans. This was a very interesting period, because I got to see the most unbelievable reactions.

I especially remember receiving a phone call from a friend of a friend of a friend, screaming in my ear that I knew nothing about what Africa was like and that it surely was different from my little town.

I let this person ab-react for a few minutes before I calmly answered that I didn’t expect it to be like home. I expected something different, otherwise I would never have to go anywhere at all.

It was the “19 year old girl going alone to Africa, what a scandal”-syndrome that I couldn’t help finding a big interest in. Why was it so dangerous? I kept asking people, and really, most of them had nothing to say.

So I made a list of dangers, then I crossed over the ones that I felt willing to face, until there was nothing left. I figured if I booked a hostel and a transfer from the airport, brought nothing that I was afraid of loosing, and a big portion of common sense, what would be the worst thing that could happen?
If I would panic as soon as I got out of the airplane, I could probably book the next flight back to Sweden. (Assuming they would have toilettes even on the African continent where I could hide while waiting for my flight, and that I wouldn’t have time to get raped, robbed and killed before I locked the door, because that was what it sounded like when people heard I was leaving.)

I flew in to Kenya and went overland through Ethiopia, Somalia, Sudan and Egypt during 5 months. I had the best time ever, I was never afraid, and nothing bad happened to me.
Of course, this was rough in many ways. It was extremely tiering, I can tell you numerous of stories, but none of those make any sense to why it would be so impossible for me to make this trip.

It all depends on your attitude. If you walk around looking scared to death, you most likely put yourself to danger. If you walk tall, people show you respect.

People eat and drink all over the planet, people have a life even in the countries that we might just associate with bombs and poverty. THIS is important! I’m not saying you should take any extreme risks, all I’m saying is that you’re not automatically risking your life because you travel alone. What you risk is loosing your satisfaction at home when you discover different worlds. You might feel like you’ve just dipped your toes into the water and now you want to swim. I think that is a good thing.

I already stood up and responded lots of reactions before. Now, nobody tells me it is stupid to go hitchhiking to India.

I am not surprised, but I still find this very interesting. I know that other peoples reactions can make you feel more insecure than curious, but my advice is to try and use it in a positive way. That is what I’m doing in the moment of writing this text!

Do you need support in standing up for your ideas? Send me an e-mail!

Good luck! / Amanda

Serbia

Endless cornfields, apricot trees, and probably more tractors than cars. The Serbian agriculture is still settled in little villages. As a visitor, this looks very much like an older world, and we finally got an idea about where all the apples in our supermarkets might come from!

Serbia is not a part of the European Union like most of it’s neighbors, and there are many other things that makes the Serbian history unique and interesting. It is not more than 10 years since the war was on in this region, and by talking to people we understand that there are still partly some disagreement between people from the former Yugoslavia.

We arrived in Belgrade with a Bulgarian wrestling trainer. We stayed in a hostel and spent 2 days in the city. We found ourselves most interested in the Nicola Tesla museum (above) built up in Belgrade as the great inventor was born in Serbia. This is the right place to understand the modern ideas of Nicola Tesla, who didn’t get to actually experience it all in reality as he died in 1943. Unfortunately we couldn’t get in to the National museum because of reconstructions (apparently since 4 years, there is no knowledge about any opening within foreseeable time).

The air pollution is quite bad in the city, something that makes it a bit uncomfortable to discover. But walking to the great fortress Kalemegdan 125 meters above sea level, or strolling around the market in the Bohemian Quarter is very nice! The amount of fresh fruit and vegetables is impressive and there is fresh running water everywhere in town to wash of your delicious grapes before eating them. A good idea is to bring a local map, as all the road signs are written in the Serbian Cyrillic alphabet!

One mystery that we will never understand though is the huge Easter Europe flower shops that are always open 24 hours. We are still searching for the answer. Ideas about why, anybody?

It took a while to get out of the city and we were only 20 kilometers away, in Pancevo, when it started to get dark. This time, it was very hard to find a place that felt safe enough to camp for the night. When we got tired and hungry, we decided to walk into a local restaurant and ask for advice.

There was a private party going on in there, and we spoke to a waiter in a separate room. He told us we could camp on the backyard, so we did. Everybody working at the restaurant were very friendly and helpful.

As we didn’t want to disturb the private party, we went out in town for food. When we came back to brush our teeth before going to sleep, a girl from the party came up to us.

“Hello, I’m Aleksandra. We are celebrating my brother’s 18:th birthday. Would you like something to eat and drink?”

And for the second time that evening we ate, Aleksandra and her family served us wine and amazing local dishes, everything organic and it tasted lovely. Aleksandra was 19 years old, and just about to start her college for English and German studies. Later on we joined the rest of the party where we learned how to dance traditional dances, and we went on for hours. We were over 100 people, and we had a great time dancing on the chairs!
Thank you dear friends!

The day after, we got invited for espresso at the restaurant where the staff had done a hard job cleaning up after the amazing party. Then it was time for us to head towards Romania.
We met quite a lot of people with some sort of relation to Sweden, probably since there are many Serbs living in Sweden. Before we left the country, we met Milan Filipovic, a Swedish-speaking thai boxer working as a school guard (apparently very common in Serbia). Milan, who had a girlfriend in Helsingborg, told us that the children show him big respect and that it is important to have a guard in the school.
Even our very last driver to the border had a brother in Sweden, who he immediately called when he understood where we came from.

Serbia has certainly given us a fantastic time! Something different has started – it is more and more obvious that we are not at home. We have seen the importance for people to tell us about their country in a different way. For good reasons – the modern history during and after the war was never heard in our classrooms. The good thing is that you can to go to Serbia to teach yourself. You won’t get disappointed!

хвала/Thank you

  • Kencho, for transporting us to Belgrade much earlier than we could ever hope to
  • Archive Restaurant, for your hospitality, great food and coffee. You helped us a lot!
  • Aleksandra with family and friends, for invinting us to your celebration. You showed us a great part of Serbia. Keep dancing!
  • Mila the truck driver, for a safe ride and the best possible communication over the language barriers
  • Milan the thai boxer, for inviting us to the school, buying us drinks and speeking to us in our own language
  • The friendly man with a brother in Sweden for driving us to the border

Hungary

Hungary was for us what a Kinder Egg is for little children.
A great surprise!
Who would have thought Hungary had the most romantic capital, the best cheese, 24 hours open milk bars with WiFi, and half German musical artists who gladly picks up hitchhikers? Well, we had no idea!

We went straight to Budapest from the border as we got picked up by a lovely Spanish couple in their rented car. It was a joy for us as we felt quite polluted after a few hours with big trucks passing by. We are considering buying some sort of masks…

After a nice ride through the country, we could see Budapest looming ahead of us. What a beauty! The buildings are all well decorated with different frames around each window and gate. And such a parliament we haven’t seen any where else. Easily competing with Notre Dame. Hungary must have had the best stonecutters through all times. The oldest parts of the roman city was found as early as in the second century!
We stayed with a Swedish host this time, Joacim, who’s been living and working in the city for over a year. He took us around to see plenty of architecture and bars. We especially fell in love with Szimpla, a HUGE building taken over by restaurant owners when it was about to get demolished.

Except for arranging the Chicken Dance with the now leading group of people, we visited Europe’s largest bathhouse built around the natural terminal water of Budapest. Excellent relaxation worth spending at least half a day at!

From Budapest we started hitchhiking south. We had just got out of the city and gotten started when somebody walked up to us and said “Hi, I saw you from the bus. Are you really going to India?”
This was Zoli, a 22 year old guy from the outskirts of Budapest, who now invited us to his house for lunch! Zoli had a big passion for traveling as well as for music, and he had the coolest thing ever: A home-made guitar! We got a private tribute and we loved it.

The day went on, serving us more miracles. When we just thought we would have to pinch the tent for the night somewhere behind TESCO, we got picked up. The driver was Merán Bálint, an actor and musical artist who was in a hurry to see his girlfriend perform in an operetta in the city of Szeged. Since we are a bit of stage-drunk musical lovers, we were happy to follow Bálint to the theater to watch the Hungarian operetta from the balcony! Afterwards we had dinner at a local milk bar with Bálint and his girlfriend who was tired after doing very well on stage! The free WiFi and the delicious pancakes made us late, and it was 4 am. when we had finally put up the tent outside the city. Totally worth it though – we stayed for one more day.

Hungary felt modern, accessible, and friendly. The capital is well worth a visit for anyone interested in culture, city life, hot baths or nice bars. If you go immediately, you’ll still get a comfortable temperature, day and night.

Köszönöm / Thank you

  • Rafael and Gemma, who brought us in the car on their holidays in Easter Europe
  • Joacim, who hosted us and showed us around town
  • Zoli, who invited us to his home and shared his thoughts and his creative music with us
  • Bálint, who gave us our first Hungarian theater experience so far
  • Roymund, who drove us over the border to Serbia and gave us perspectives from both sides.

You all inspired us!